You know it’s time to start thinking about your next visit to Ireland when Aer Lingus offers start to appear in your inbox and NBC’s "Today" show broadcasts live from Sheen Falls Lodge in Kenmare, County Kerry. A brilliant “plan ahead” idea from Tourism Ireland, the show aired over four hours last Friday. It teased viewers into thinking [way] ahead about a visit, highlighting Ireland’s scenery, culture, food, drink, even the weather. Alison Metcalfe, Executive Vice President, Head of North America, said, “We hope it [the show] inspires viewers to come and experience the island of Ireland for themselves.”
Personally, I never need encouragement and was thrilled to see the "Today" crew visit some of my favorite places, including Sheen Falls (sheenfallslodge.ie), the gorgeous property just recognized by Condé Nast Traveler and Travel + Leisure as the number one resort in Ireland and the UK. I’m also happy to recommend it, along with three other properties in Kerry that I visited a few months ago, including the nearby Landsdowne Kenmare, a 250-year-old Georgian townhouse in the center of town.
Some refer to the charming 28-room boutique hotel as “Kenmare’s living room,” not only for its central location at the corner of Main and Shelbourne Streets, but also for the inviting public rooms and authentic Irish welcome you’re sure to get from hosts Aileen and Patrick Hanley. Small wonder the Sunday Independent Magazine recently named it as one of the “10 Best Family-owned Hotels and Guesthouses in Ireland” and Georgina Campbell recognized the couple as “Hosts of the Year 2026” at her Irish Food & Hospitality Awards ceremony. The honor recognizes their “commitment to exceptional hospitality,” a trait that was, undoubtedly, handed down from Patrick’s parents who ran the hotel from 1972-2000; ownership returned to the younger Hanleys in 2024.
Aileen and Patrick Hanley. [Photo: Lansdowne Kenmare]
The rooms are incredibly stylish, and its two restaurants are popular with locals and guests alike (casual An Nead Café serves breakfast and lunch; Shelburne Street serves locally sourced Irish dishes for dinner, Sunday lunch, and special occasions). You’ll also find a perfect pint drawn at The Poet’s Bar, a cozy pub/bar that regularly hosts events ranging from music sessions to book club meetings and art exhibits. Irish Independent travel editor Pól Ó Conghaile added The Lansdowne (lansdownekenmare.com) to his prestigious “Hot 100 Hotels” list this year, ranking it #84. We all love it!
THE VICTORIA
With more than 600 hotels scattered throughout Killarney, widely recognized as the capital of leisure tourism in Ireland, finding one to fit your needs (budget, location, style) is hardly a problem. For me, the Victoria on the Muckross Road (N71) ticked all the boxes. My stay there was the first of a 12-night visit to Ireland, and my first impression was just that — impressive!
The ivy-clad hotel gives off a manor house vibe from the outside but instantly switches to contemporary chic once you step inside. Traditional furnishings (wing chairs, comfy sofas, marble tables) are cleverly paired with abstract paintings, Moroccan-style panels, and glitzy accessories ranging from ostrich feathers to funky dog prints and zebra-stiped pillows. Surprisingly, it wasn’t a Dublin designer who curated the hotel’s eclectic style; rather, it was John and Sínead Courtney, the owners who oversee nearly every aspect of the hotel operation and have strong connections to the property.
I sat down with the very busy Sínead who explained how the Victoria grew from a small family farm to its current 4-star rated property. “John’s sister opened the original B&B in 1993, but the land (and adjacent caravan park) has been in his family since 1918. We took over in 1996, expanded it to its current 33 rooms, and continue to make improvements,” she said, “taking as much [design] inspiration as possible from our surroundings.”
The hotel sits on the doorstep of Killarney National Park, so when it comes to inspiration, “natural” is the operative word in both the rooms (no two are the same, but they’re tied together with lots of soothing shades of blue, grey, and green) and the restaurants. I enjoyed breakfast, lunch, and dinner in all three — the Ivy Lounge, Botanical, and Courtyard. The Victoria (thevictoriakillarney.com) was also named in the “Hot 100 Hotels” list this year, ranking #30. Equally impressive, it’s a Michelin “One Key” holder, defined as “hidden gems where personalized service and authentic flavor shine through, often at a surprisingly accessible price point.”
BUTLER ARMS
I didn’t need GPS to locate the Butler Arms, the 142-year-old hotel that sits in the center of Waterville, a small village midway between Killarney and Kenmare on the Ring of Kerry (N70). The views over Ballinskelligs Bay alone might be a good reason for a stay, but touring the Skellig Coast, a boat trip to Skellig Michael, or a round of golf at Waterville Links are more likely. In fact, when ownership of the hotel changed hands in 2026, golf played a major role in the sale.
The new owners, including local man Niall Moran (a principal in nearby Hog’s Head private golf course), were eager to keep the hotel as a focal point of the village. Once the sale was finalized in January, Moran explained how much they viewed the hotel as the “economic driver for the village” and they wanted to make sure it didn’t shut down.
He said, “We saw the hotel’s huge potential for the tourism industry, but also for its importance to the local population.” From January until April, when the hotel is closed, they got to work “sprucing it up.” Refurbishment included painting the dark paneling a lovely shade of grey/green, refreshing the public spaces (Charlie’s Restaurant and the Whiskey Bar), and redecorating the bedrooms. And this is just the beginning: the hotel closed on October 11 for the season (it will reopen in April) and additional renovations (including adding possibly up to 15 bedrooms to the existing 36) began the following day. I can’t wait to return (butlerarms.com).
Margaret Johnson’s “Ireland Hopping: Adventures in Food, Drink, and Travel” page alternates with “Recipes.” For further details on her work, or to order a signed cookbook, visit irishcook.com
