Move over mayonnaise. Let go of the mustard and ketchup. On my recent visit to Ireland, I discovered that these popular condiments are facing serious competition from sweet-tart chutneys, tangy relishes, and savory jams, all of which add flavor and texture to toasties, sandwiches, meats, and cheese.
As a reminder to folks in the U.S. who don’t use these condiments as regularly as cooks in Ireland, chutney is a traditional Indian sauce made from a combination of fruits, vegetables, spices, and vinegar (Major Gray’s chutney is one of the most popular). Relish is typically made from pickled vegetables, such as cucumbers or onions, cooked with vinegar, sugar, and spices; and savory jam (sometimes called marmalade) is a cross between the two with the ingredients cooked down to a jam-like texture that allows the sweet and savory flavors to meld. Call them what you will, the one-pot wonders will elevate a sandwich from ordinary to awesome with a few minutes of chopping and about an hour’s worth of simmering.
TOMATO RELISH
Makes 1 cup
One the most well-known names in the Irish culinary world is Ballymaloe, a country house accommodation, cookery school, and purveyor of high-quality sauces, dressings, and relishes. Its tomato-based Ballymaloe Relish is among the most popular. The chef at Sadlers, a restaurant and bar in Fethard, County Tipperary, tops both his Toasted Special (a Dubliner cheese and roast beef sandwich) and his Cheddar Burger with it. This recipe for tomato relish is a tasty substitute.
1 beefstake tomato, peeled, seeded, and diced
6 to 7 cherry tomatoes, halved
1/2 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and diced
1 onion, diced
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
1/3 cup (packed) light brown sugar
1/4 cup golden raisins
1/4 teaspoon allspice
1/4 teaspoon ginger
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1. In a large saucepan combine the tomatoes, apple, onion, vinegar, sugar, raisins, allspice, ginger, nutmeg, sugar, salt, and pepper. Slowly bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat.
2. Reduce the heat to simmer. Continue to cook, stirring frequently, for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the mixture thickens (with a fork, remove and discard the tomato skins as they separate from the pulp).
3. Spoon the relish into a clean jar. Cover and refrigerate for up to 3 weeks.
APPLE CHUTNEY
Makes about 2 cups
Spread this flavorful chutney on a honey baked ham and cheddar sandwich or on a Pulled Pork Sandwich, like the one served at the Bar and Restaurant at Waterville Golf Links in County Kerry. The chef there also tops a classic Reuben (corned beef, Emmenthal cheese, and sauerkraut) with Plum Chutney for unexpected punch.
6 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and diced
1 medium onion, chopped
2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger
1 cup orange juice
1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
1 cup (packed) light brown sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1/2 cup golden raisins
1. In a large saucepan, combine the apples, ginger, orange juice, vinegar, brown sugar, salt, mustard seeds, and pepper flakes. Slowly bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat.
2. Reduce the heat to simmer. Continue to cook, stirring frequently, for 50 to 60 minutes, or until the mixture thickens. Remove from heat; stir in the raisins.
3. Spoon the chutney into clean jars. Cover and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.
RED ONION JAM
Makes 1 1/2 cups
The chef at Cullens, a casual dining spot on the grounds of Ashford Castle in Cong, County Mayo, tops burgers there with Jameson and Onion Jam. This jam recipe doesn’t contain whiskey, although I’m sure a tablespoon or two wouldn’t hurt!
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 medium red onions, thinly sliced
1/2 cup (packed) dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
Salt
Ground black pepper
1. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, heat the oil. Add the onions. Cook, stirring once or twice, for about 10 minutes, or until wilted. Stir in the sugar and vinegar.
2. Reduce the heat to simmer. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the mixture thickens. Stir in the thyme, salt, and pepper.
3. Spoon the jam into clean jars. Cover and refrigerate for up to 3 weeks.
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FIG CHUTNEY
Makes about 3 cups
Figs and cheese are nearly standard on a cheese plate or charcuterie board. For an even simpler presentation, spread Tipperary-made Cashel Blue on an oat cake or wheat cracker and top with a dollop of this chutney.
1 1/4 cups sugar
1 1/4 cup water
1 1/4 to 1 1/2 pounds fresh figs, trimmed and quartered
1/4 cup golden raisins
2 tablespoons grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/2 cup chopped walnuts
1. In a large saucepan over medium heat, combine the sugar and 3/4 cup of the water. Cook for about 5 minutes, stirring until the sugar dissolves.
2. Reduce the heat to low. Add the figs, raisins, lemon zest and juice.
3. Cook, stirring frequently, for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the mixture thickens.
4. Stir in the walnuts and remaining 3/4 cups water. Continue to cook until the mixture is thick and syrupy.
5. Spoon the chutney into clean jars. Cover and refrigerate for up to 3 weeks.
Margaret Johnson’s “Recipes” page alternates with “Ireland Hopping: Adventures in Food, Drink, and Travel.” For further details on her work, or to order a signed cookbook, visit irishcook.com
