Rhubarb only makes a brief appearance in spring, from as early as March in Ireland to as late as May in other areas where it’s grown. It’s here in the northeast U.S. where I live, so I’m grabbing bunches of it to use now and to freeze for later when I want a taste of spring. Because of its tart, bitter flavor, rhubarb is generally paired with a sweet fruit — strawberries and raspberries among the most popular — to balance the flavor. Rhubarb wasn’t a popular ingredient until the eighteenth century when sugar became a more common ingredient in baking, but now you find it in baked goods like pies, crumbles, and tray bakes; swirled or layered into creamy, chilled parfaits; and stewed or roasted to make jams, syrups, and sauces. Enjoy!
STRAWBERRY-ELDERFLOWER CRUMBLE
Serves 6
The recipe for this crumble, a discovery at an Avoca Café in Wicklow, lets the rhubarb stand on its own with only a little sweetening from elderflower cordial, a lovely contemporary touch. Both the crumble and filling are made separately and can be assembled at serving time. Serve warm or at room temperature in individual ramekins; top with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.
For the crumble
2 cups flour
8 ounces butter, cut into small pieces
3/4 cup (packed) light brown sugar
1 cup Irish oatmeal
1/2 cup chopped hazelnuts
1 1/4 cups flaked almonds
1. Preheat the oven to 325ºF. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. In a large bowl combine the flour, butter, brown sugar, oatmeal, hazelnuts, and almonds. With your fingertips, rub the mixture together to form small clusters. Spread out on the prepared pan.
3. Bake, stirring every 5 minutes, for 35 to 40 minutes, or until browned and crisp.
For the rhubarb
4 to 5 stalks rhubarb, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
3/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 tablespoons elderflower cordial
Zest of 1/2 lemon
Whipped cream or vanilla ice cream, for serving
1. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine the rhubarb, sugar, vanilla, elderflower cordial, and lemon zest. Cook, stirring once or twice, for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the rhubarb is nearly tender (do not overcook).
2. To serve, spoon the fruit into six 4-ounce ramekins; top with the crumble (freeze leftover crumble in resealable plastic bags). Serve with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream, if desired. (To make ahead, assemble fruit and crumble. Reheat in a 325ºF oven for 10 to 15 minutes).
RHUBARB-BUTTERMILK MUFFINS
Makes 12 Muffins
Buttermilk gives these muffins a light and delicate texture. If you like additional flavor, add a pinch of cinnamon or a tablespoon of candied ginger.
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
Pinch of salt
2 ounces butter, at room temperature
1 cup (packed) light brown sugar
1 large egg
3/4 cup buttermilk
4 to 5 stalks rhubarb, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
1/4 cup candied ginger bits (optional)
1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Coat a standard 12-well muffin pan with no-stick baking spray.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.
3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or with a hand mixer), beat the butter and sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy. Beat in the egg and buttermilk until smooth. Stir the flour mixture into the butter mixture; fold in the rhubarb and ginger bits (if using). Divide evenly into the prepared muffin cups.
4. Bake the muffins for about 25 minutes, or until a skewer inserted into the center comes out clean. Cool in pan on a wire rack for about 15 minutes. Turn out and cool completely.
STRAWBERRY-RHUBARB CURACH
Serves 4
If you think this recipe reads a bit like a Scottish Cranachan, you’re right! A “Curach” is a honey, whiskey, and oatmeal fruit parfait that dates to the eighteenth century. Here, Irish oats and whiskey replace the usual Scottish ingredients, but regardless or national origin, it’s a lovely, layered parfait that’s as easy-as-pie to assemble. REMINDER: rhubarb leaves are toxic, so be sure to discard entirely.
1 cup Irish rolled or porridge oats
2 tablespoon brown sugar
2 tablespoon butter, melted
4 to 5 stalks rhubarb, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
2 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons honey
1 cup chopped strawberries
1 cup heavy (whipping) cream
2 tablespoons Irish whiskey
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a small bowl, combine the oats, sugar, and butter. Spread the oats mixture out on a baking sheet. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, or until toasted (stir once or twice to prevent burning). Cool completely.
2. In a medium saucepan, combine the rhubarb, water, and honey. Bring to a simmer. Let cook for about 10 minutes. Add the strawberries; continue to cook for another 5 minutes, or until the fruit is soft. Let cool.
3. Whip the cream until soft peaks form. Stir in the whiskey.
4. Divide the rhubarb mixture among 4 parfait or stemmed glasses. Layer with whipped cream and sprinkle with oats mixture. NOTE: you might be able to get a few more servings depending on the size of the glasses you use.
RASPBERRY-RHUBARB CRUMBLE CAKE
Serves 10 to 12
This very moist, rich cake with a crispy crumble topping is delicious for breakfast, teatime, or dessert. Serve it plain or with whipped cream or crème fraîche.
For the topping
1 ounce unsalted butter, melted
1/2 cup (packed) light brown sugar
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 teaspoons cinnamon
4 large eggs, beaten
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Coat a 9-inch springform pan with no-stick baking spray.
2. In a small bowl, combine the butter, brown sugar, granulated sugar, and cinnamon; whisk in the eggs.
For the cake
8 ounces unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup granulated sugar
3 large eggs, beaten
3/4 cup self-rising flour
Pinch of salt
1/2 cup milk
1 cup ground almonds
1 cup chopped rhubarb
1 cup raspberries
Whipped cream or crème fraîche, for serving
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or with a hand mixer), beat the butter and sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs, one at a time; beat in flour, salt, and milk. With a wooden spoon, stir until soft dough forms.
4. Transfer to the prepared pan. Sprinkle almonds on top; sprinkle the rhubarb and raspberries over the nuts. Pour the topping over the fruit.
5. Bake the cake 70 to 75 minutes, or until a skewer inserted into center comes out clean. Let cool on a wire rack for 15 to 20 minutes before the releasing sides of pan. Slice and serve with whipped cream or crème fraîche, if desired.
Margaret Johnson’s “Recipes” page alternates with “Ireland Hopping: Adventures in Food, Drink, and Travel.” For further details on her work, or to order her cookbooks, visit irishcook.com
