If you’re planning a visit to Ireland any time soon, you’d be well-served to check out Pól Ó Conghaile’s recently revealed list of “the 100 best hotels in Ireland for 2025.” The Irish Independent travel editor’s annual list (independent.ie, September 13) celebrates “the best of the best, from rising stars to old reliables and stand-out reinventions.” As the travel editor, Ó Conghaile says, “I see myself as a link between hotels and readers. . . I also see the best Irish hotels as community hubs, as big local employers, and joyful providers of spaces for us to date, celebrate and commiserate in.” (His top 10 are listed at the end of this column.)
I’m always thrilled to see the coveted lists of “best” Irish hotels in national newspapers like the Independent and in international magazines. I’m even more excited to note that this year’s list includes three-, four- and five-star properties and that I’ve stayed in 39 of this year’s 100! (I need to catch up!) Over the years I’ve reported on a number of them on this page and hope you’ll appreciate my comments on some of those that made the list. (The numbers, of course, reflect Ó Conghaile’s 2025 ranking.)
#1 HARVEY’S POINT
(December 27, 2017) “For one leg of my north-south journey, I spent time relaxing — make that “luxuriating” — in Donegal at Harvey’s Point Hotel on the shore of Lough Eske. Covering 900 acres, the surface of the lough can be smooth-as-glass or rough-and-tumble depending on the weather and the wind. With the Bluestack Mountains rising above the lough and the hotel sitting at the edge, the scene is a photographer’s dream when you grab a photo from the other side. But it’s inside the hotel that really makes a visit worthwhile. What began as an old cottage hidden in the hills of Donegal, Harvey’s Point has blossomed into a world class property since opening as a guesthouse in 1989.” harveyspoint.com.
#4 BALLYNAHINCH CASTLE
(January 10, 2017) “Ballynahinch Castle is one of Ireland’s finest luxury properties. Set in a private 700-acre estate in Recess, Connemara, this unpretentious, homey castle hotel overlooks its own salmon fishery, has miles of walking and cycling trails, and is within a 30- to 40-minute drive to some of the region’s most delightful places. The hotel itself is, simply put, a real charmer. Once the home of “Humanity Dick” Martin, an Irish politician and campaigner against cruelty to animals, the public rooms at Ballynahinch are more Irish sporting lodge than castle in style, with open log fires, comfy sofas and chairs, and outdoor “stuff” everywhere. There are 48 beautifully decorated guest rooms and suites in the original house and the new wing, all with views of either the courtyard, surrounding mountains and woods, or the river.” ballynahinchcastle.com
#8 CASHEL PALACE HOTEL
(April 26, 2023) “What better place to spend a few days here [in Cashel, County Tipperary] than at The Cashel Palace Hotel, the most historically significant building in town. The property was built for the Archbishop of Cashel in 1732 in the popular Palladian style and was the heart of religious life for more than 200 years. The Church of Ireland sold it in 1959, and it eventually opened as a luxury hotel in 1962. When I first stayed there in May 2012 I thought, “how could this place be any more beautiful?”
Fast-forward to 2016 when the Magnier family bought the hotel, closed it down for four years, and transformed it into an even more beautiful — make that magnificent — property than I could ever have imagined. It was named it “Hotel of the Year 2022” only months after reopening on March 1. Occupying 25 acres, with impressive gardens and a private pathway to the Rock of Cashel, the hotel now includes 42 bedrooms and suites, a world-class spa, and three restaurants, including the lovely Queen Anne room where breakfast, lunch, and afternoon tea are served; stunning Bishop’s Buttery, the fine dining restaurant in the hotel’s original cellar; and Mikey Ryan’s, their Main Street pub.” see NOTE cashelpalace.com
Sheen Falls River Walk. [Photo Margaret M. Johnson]
#36 SHEEN FALLS LODGE
(January 24, 2018) “A stay at Sheen Falls Lodge (Kenmare, County Kerry) is just about as good as it gets. Despite the number of times I’ve visited the area, this was my first stay, so I was as wide-eyed as any of the other guests who were there on a beautiful autumn weekend. The rooms are divine, some offering open fireplaces and views over either Kenmare Bay or Sheen waterfalls; the library is fully stocked and homey; the Easanna Spa has a heated pool and fitness center; and the dining options are delightful. The Cocktail Bar and Sun Lounge is open all day for light bites, lunch, and afternoon tea, and The Falls, its fine dining restaurant, serves elegant, classical cuisine. A stroll around the woodlands, riverside walks, or forest pathways of the 300-acre property is a “must,” and during my visit I even caught a bit of sunshine to complement the natural beauty of the estate. The charming market town of Kenmare, a 5-minute drive from the estate, is always open for business.” sheenfallslodge.ie
#87 THE LANDSDOWNE KENMARE
(August 7, 2024) “Over the course of forty years [of my travel to Ireland], food fairs, festivals, and farmers markets have blossomed; gourmet food shops have flourished; artisan cheesemakers have multiplied; and breakfast offerings are more exciting than ever. But guess what? The “full Irish” still tops most menus, along with a steaming bowl of porridge like one I enjoyed recently at The Landsdowne Kenmare. This “little haven in Kenmare,” one of the oldest properties in the town, has 28 charming rooms, a lovely living room/lobby, and two eateries, both open to the public for nearly all-day dining. The stylish Shelburne Street Restaurant offers evening meals ranging from Kerry Lamb Belly to a Burger with Bacon Jam, and bustling An Nead Café serves breakfast and lunch. Heir Island Brown Bread is offered on all the menus.” landsdownekenmare.com
HEIR ISLAND BROWN BREAD
Makes 1 loaf
The recipe for this bread originated at The Island Cottage, a tiny restaurant located off the coast of West Cork.
3 cups extra coarse wheat flour
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cup buttermilk
1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
Butter and jam, for serving
1. Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Coat a 9-inch loaf pan with no-stick cooking spray. Line the pan with parchment paper.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, brown sugar, baking soda, and salt. In another bowl, whisk together the buttermilk and oil.
3. Stir the milk mixture into the flour mixture. With a wooden spoon, mix well. Transfer the mixture to the prepared pan.
4. Bake the bread for about 45 minutes, until a skewer inserted the center comes out almost clean. Remove the pan from the oven; invert the bread onto a wire rack. Return the bread to the oven; bake an additional 15 minutes. Remove from oven; let cool completely on a wire rack before cutting into slices. Serve slices spread with butter and jam, if you wish.
NOTE: In 2024, The Bishop’s Buttery was awarded its first Michelin Star, and the hotel opened Sadler’s, a casual dining restaurant and bar in nearby Fethard.
PÓL'S TOP 10
1. HARVEY’S POINT, Lough Eske, Co. Donegal, 4*
“A five-star in all but name, and long may that last.”
2. THE SHELBOURNE, Dublin, 5*
“Like Aer Lingus, or indeed Guinness, it’s a brand owned internationally but forever ours. It’s at once a place beyond me, but one I left feeling like I had added a line or two.”
3. ARMADA HOTEL, Spanish Point, Co Clare, 4*
“Leaving the Armada, guests are given a loaf of bread. A homemade keepsake, its whiff lingering as Spanish Point slinks out of the rear-view mirror. It’s a tiny detail, but a big insight into the thought and mission of this groundbreaking four-star.”
4. BALLYNAHINCH CASTLE, Connemara, Co Galway, 4*
“Ballynahinch is a hug of a hotel. A high-end hug, with bewitching Irish art, chef Danni Barry in the kitchen and a gentle but graceful evolution of its design underway, but a hug nevertheless.”
5. PARKNASILLA RESORT & SPA, Sneem, Co Kerry, 4*
“Almost half of visitors are repeat, and they don’t just come for the coastal setting and sense of tradition, but the warm service, laid-back luxury and thoughtful choice of activities.”
6. NO 1 PERY SQUARE, Limerick, 4*
[“Owner Patricia Roberts’] boutique hotel is a beautiful bet on Limerick city, and she is always nudging it on. . . Limerick is lucky to have it.”
7. DROMOLAND CASTLE, Newmarket-on-Fergus, Co Clare, 5*
“The Coop is a new wellness space in a restored cottage, and The Lodge offers self-catering (or catered options). Activities range from falconry to history tours, but its heart remains the disarming homeliness.”
8. CASHEL PALACE HOTEL, Cashel, Co Tipperary, 5*
“It’s a pleasure to see so much Tipperary and Irish produce from menus to minibars and, even on a short visit, you can sense a culture ticking over. Staff smile, make eye contract, engage – it feels like they enjoy it, but are also empowered to.”
9. BALLYGARRY ESTATE, Tralee, Co Kerry, 4*
“The service, vision and sustainability – from a body scrub using honey from its apiary to a reed-bed filtration system treating wastewater – go way beyond what you’d expect from a roadside resort.”
10. GOUGANE BARRA HOTEL, Gougane Barra, Co Cork, 3*
“The couple [owners Neil and Katy Lucey] are the fifth generation to run the hotel, and feel like keepers of the valley. I’d encourage any burnt-out big hotel manager, or staff overrun by spreadsheets and systems, to check in and rediscover the simple joy of heartfelt hospitality.”
Margaret Johnson’s “Recipes” page also includes “Ireland Hopping: Adventures in Food, Drink, and Travel.” To order one of her signed cookbooks, visit irishcook.com.
